One of the things that I've found the hardest about having my own Etsy shop is the taking and editing of product photos. When I first started on this journey, I had never taken a good photo on purpose; my good shots were limited to holiday snaps that had turned out beautifully... by accident!
It didn't take me very long to develop a serious case of Etsy Photo Envy, so I started researching. Over time, I have learnt about light boxes, natural light, white balance, and the tools I couldn't live without in Photoshop to edit my product photos. Today, I'd like to share that knowledge with you in the hopes that you won't have to go through the same pain in the butt process as I have!
Allow me to begin with my disclaimer- I am in no way a great photographer, nor a great photo editor, and I know that there are many people in the world who probably use far better techniques than these! But if you, like me, are a newbie at a loss of how to match some of the incredible photography on Etsy, and you like the types of product photos I take, then hopefully you'll like some of what I have to share with you.
Today, I'm going to show you how to photograph a product in this way:
And, next week, I'll show you how to edit it so that it becomes this photo:
Are you ready? Let's go!
If you've ever researched product photography, then you will have come across a discussion about Light Boxes. Some people swear by them; others have sworn off them. I'm of the opinion that if you do it right, light boxes can be brilliant (especially in the chilly Melbourne winter!); however, I've recently started using natural light and actually prefer that. Try both, and see what works for you and your gorgeous goodies!
LIGHT BOX TIPS
In a nutshell, a light box is a cardboard box with translucent walls that strong light can shine through, and it looks something like this:
They are reasonably cheap to create, and here are two tutorials to help you do just that.
If you do choose to create and try a light box, here are the tips that I learnt (the hard way!):
- Use smooth, large white paper as the background; any creases will show up and have to be edited out. I found that using white fabric as a background is far more difficult than paper, as it's extremely hard to find pure white fabric and every little fold, crease and bump shows up.
- Find the brightest, whitest light globes you can. Low wattage globes don't provide enough light, and anything with a 'natural' or 'fluorescent' tint will give you yellow and blue shading respectively. Energy efficient globes at a high wattage are particularly good.
- Use the same light source from every angle! I originally used the lamps that I had around the house, only to find that I had three different hues in my highlights and shadows once I got to the editing of each photo. Not good!
NATURAL LIGHT TIPS
Indirect sunlight is your best friend, and this is the only light you want to be taking your photographs in. To find indirect sunlight on a day with clear skies, simply hunt for a shadow of something larger than your products; the shading that trees, verandas and fences produce work well. On an overcast day, you can take your photos almost anywhere.
I've noticed that taking photos is best in the morning or late afternoon, as the light is too intense in the middle of the day.
STEP 2: PREPARING TO TAKE THE PHOTO
SELECT YOUR BACKGROUND
If you're using natural light, find a solid, low-key background and base such as a wooden fence, decking or planks. I've found that paving, grass and concrete make for horrible backgrounds in terms of editing, but you may find otherwise!
If you're using a light box, the background question is already answered!
SET YOUR WHITE BALANCE
Setting your white balance is one of the most important steps you will take. Never heard of it? Neither had I until I discovered that it's the greatest thing every introduced to the world of amateur photography!
Basically, white balance is a tool on your camera that allows you to tell it what pure white looks like at that exact moment and in the exact lighting conditions you're in. Once it knows this, it can automatically readjust all other colours so that they look as natural and true-to-life as possible.
To set it, you usually find and select the 'White Balance' option in your camera's menu, focus your lens on a piece of plain white paper and press the 'Select' button. Of course, each camera will be different, so hunt out your camera manual (now!) and follow the specific instructions.
STEP 3: TAKING THE PHOTO
POINT AND SHOOT
I use a very basic point-and-shoot camera, but I still manage to take some reasonable (I hope!) photos. I believe you don't need anything fancier, so just use the camera you've got, point it and shoot!
WHAT TO PHOTOGRAPH
If you have a store on a site like Etsy, you can have up to 5 photos of each product. Depending on what you make, you'll need to make sure that the photos you take show your customers the key sides or elements of your product (such as the front, the back, the sides, the top and bottom, the inside, and any specific detailing).
GET CREATIVE WITH ANGLES
It is possible to show these elements of your product in a creative way. Whilst photographing:
- walk around so that you can take photos from varying angles;
- pick up your product and move it so that you can get interesting shots; and
- get in close so that you can show the details in creative ways.
TAKE 10 PHOTOS OF EACH PRODUCT
I take no less than 10 photos of each product, and only end up using 5. Why? Well, it's surprising how many times the photo lighting, angle or style just doesn't look that good once it's on a computer screen.
Further, some photos are more difficult to edit than others, and I don't want to be stuck on a single snap for half an hour when I could simply choose another one.
Finally, seeing all 10 photos and angles that you've taken together will help you decide which ones are best; if you only take 5 shots and are forced to use every one, you may be doing your products an injustice by not using the best possible photographs.
I hope you've enjoyed and learnt something from this tutorial! As I said, these are all tips from my personal experience, but I've learnt such an amazing amount from other crafters' experiences that I really hope I can offer you something from my knowledge base. Stay tuned for Part 2 of the tutorial next Wednesday, where I'll show you how to edit the gorgeous photos that you now have!
---
P.S. A huge thank you to my gorgeous partner Sharon, who has spent months patiently making my light boxes, taking my product photos and comforting me when I've had major spack-attacks over how difficult the photography thing can be.
P.P.S I was on the phone to Laos yesterday, and managed to source wholesale rates for that gorgeous, vegetable dyed, hand woven, fair trade organic cotton I was telling you about. The prices are now cheaper- as is postage because I now know specific weights- so check it out here!
It didn't take me very long to develop a serious case of Etsy Photo Envy, so I started researching. Over time, I have learnt about light boxes, natural light, white balance, and the tools I couldn't live without in Photoshop to edit my product photos. Today, I'd like to share that knowledge with you in the hopes that you won't have to go through the same pain in the butt process as I have!Allow me to begin with my disclaimer- I am in no way a great photographer, nor a great photo editor, and I know that there are many people in the world who probably use far better techniques than these! But if you, like me, are a newbie at a loss of how to match some of the incredible photography on Etsy, and you like the types of product photos I take, then hopefully you'll like some of what I have to share with you.
Today, I'm going to show you how to photograph a product in this way:
And, next week, I'll show you how to edit it so that it becomes this photo:
Are you ready? Let's go!STEP 1: THE LIGHTING DECISION
LIGHT BOXES VS. NATURAL LIGHT If you've ever researched product photography, then you will have come across a discussion about Light Boxes. Some people swear by them; others have sworn off them. I'm of the opinion that if you do it right, light boxes can be brilliant (especially in the chilly Melbourne winter!); however, I've recently started using natural light and actually prefer that. Try both, and see what works for you and your gorgeous goodies!
LIGHT BOX TIPS
In a nutshell, a light box is a cardboard box with translucent walls that strong light can shine through, and it looks something like this:
They are reasonably cheap to create, and here are two tutorials to help you do just that. If you do choose to create and try a light box, here are the tips that I learnt (the hard way!):
- Use smooth, large white paper as the background; any creases will show up and have to be edited out. I found that using white fabric as a background is far more difficult than paper, as it's extremely hard to find pure white fabric and every little fold, crease and bump shows up.
- Find the brightest, whitest light globes you can. Low wattage globes don't provide enough light, and anything with a 'natural' or 'fluorescent' tint will give you yellow and blue shading respectively. Energy efficient globes at a high wattage are particularly good.
- Use the same light source from every angle! I originally used the lamps that I had around the house, only to find that I had three different hues in my highlights and shadows once I got to the editing of each photo. Not good! NATURAL LIGHT TIPS
Indirect sunlight is your best friend, and this is the only light you want to be taking your photographs in. To find indirect sunlight on a day with clear skies, simply hunt for a shadow of something larger than your products; the shading that trees, verandas and fences produce work well. On an overcast day, you can take your photos almost anywhere.
I've noticed that taking photos is best in the morning or late afternoon, as the light is too intense in the middle of the day.STEP 2: PREPARING TO TAKE THE PHOTO
SELECT YOUR BACKGROUND
If you're using natural light, find a solid, low-key background and base such as a wooden fence, decking or planks. I've found that paving, grass and concrete make for horrible backgrounds in terms of editing, but you may find otherwise!
If you're using a light box, the background question is already answered!
SET YOUR WHITE BALANCE Setting your white balance is one of the most important steps you will take. Never heard of it? Neither had I until I discovered that it's the greatest thing every introduced to the world of amateur photography!
Basically, white balance is a tool on your camera that allows you to tell it what pure white looks like at that exact moment and in the exact lighting conditions you're in. Once it knows this, it can automatically readjust all other colours so that they look as natural and true-to-life as possible.
To set it, you usually find and select the 'White Balance' option in your camera's menu, focus your lens on a piece of plain white paper and press the 'Select' button. Of course, each camera will be different, so hunt out your camera manual (now!) and follow the specific instructions.
STEP 3: TAKING THE PHOTO
I use a very basic point-and-shoot camera, but I still manage to take some reasonable (I hope!) photos. I believe you don't need anything fancier, so just use the camera you've got, point it and shoot!
WHAT TO PHOTOGRAPHIf you have a store on a site like Etsy, you can have up to 5 photos of each product. Depending on what you make, you'll need to make sure that the photos you take show your customers the key sides or elements of your product (such as the front, the back, the sides, the top and bottom, the inside, and any specific detailing).
GET CREATIVE WITH ANGLES
It is possible to show these elements of your product in a creative way. Whilst photographing:
- walk around so that you can take photos from varying angles;
- pick up your product and move it so that you can get interesting shots; and
- get in close so that you can show the details in creative ways.
TAKE 10 PHOTOS OF EACH PRODUCT
I take no less than 10 photos of each product, and only end up using 5. Why? Well, it's surprising how many times the photo lighting, angle or style just doesn't look that good once it's on a computer screen.
Further, some photos are more difficult to edit than others, and I don't want to be stuck on a single snap for half an hour when I could simply choose another one.
Finally, seeing all 10 photos and angles that you've taken together will help you decide which ones are best; if you only take 5 shots and are forced to use every one, you may be doing your products an injustice by not using the best possible photographs.
I hope you've enjoyed and learnt something from this tutorial! As I said, these are all tips from my personal experience, but I've learnt such an amazing amount from other crafters' experiences that I really hope I can offer you something from my knowledge base. Stay tuned for Part 2 of the tutorial next Wednesday, where I'll show you how to edit the gorgeous photos that you now have!
---
P.S. A huge thank you to my gorgeous partner Sharon, who has spent months patiently making my light boxes, taking my product photos and comforting me when I've had major spack-attacks over how difficult the photography thing can be.
P.P.S I was on the phone to Laos yesterday, and managed to source wholesale rates for that gorgeous, vegetable dyed, hand woven, fair trade organic cotton I was telling you about. The prices are now cheaper- as is postage because I now know specific weights- so check it out here!
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